cone compressor

Hi, I have just picked up a suspension cone compressor from Moss, it is the new metric type with an allen key. There are no instructions. Does anyone know how to use it. I can see the basic principle but assume you have to give it so many turns.

Thanks

Paul

Sorry, can't help - my Cone Compresser is called Terry Baker!

Seriously, I didn't know how to do the knuckles on mine, so I got Terry to do it for me.


R.

I can't see a picture of it on their website, so I can't say for sure it works the same way as the traditional Sykes Pickavant one. If I remember correctly, Haynes suggests 9 full turns once the thread engages in the cone when you're using the proper factory one so I would expect Moss' version would be the same.

Main things to note are:
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone
- be careful when screwing the rod into the cone - if you strip the threads on either the rod or the cone, it'll be an angle grinder job to get it out
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone
- do the full 9 turns to reduce the strain on the threads
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone
- only compress the cone just enough to do whatever work you're doing, to avoid stressing the compressor and the bulkhead
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone

If the rod pulls out of the cone (which shouldn't happen, but can) then the energy stored in the cone has to go somewhere. Usually it makes the cone shoot downwards, but sometimes the compressor can shoot upwards, so do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone...

Quoted from siddarz

Main things to note are:
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone

If the rod pulls out of the cone (which shouldn't happen, but can) then the energy stored in the cone has to go somewhere. Usually it makes the cone shoot downwards, but sometimes the compressor can shoot upwards, so do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone...

Is it safe to assume you've found this out the hard way

Thanks for the warnings, it sounded so simple in the Haynes manual!

Quoted from Jack Knightmare

Is it safe to assume you've found this out the hard way

Oh yes... it's a great cure for constipation when the compressor puts a dent in the underside of the bonnet, and the cone hits the top arm hard enough to squeeze itself out of the subframe tower...

But as long as you do it properly, you're OK  

Might be worth giving Moss a ring to see if there are meant to be instructions with the compressor - I've found them quite helpful int he past.

Quoted from siddarz

Oh yes... it's a great cure for constipation when the compressor puts a dent in the underside of the bonnet, and the cone hits the top arm hard enough to squeeze itself out of the subframe tower...

But as long as you do it properly, you're OK  

Might be worth giving Moss a ring to see if there are meant to be instructions with the compressor - I've found them quite helpful int he past.

i would take the bonnet off, saves making big dents and sore heads.

Managed to replace the knuckle joints and still have my head. Removed the bonnet just in case and worked outside so as not to dent garage door too. Re-fitted new knuckle joints but could not see how to get cone and complete joint into place in one go. I removed plastic cup and fitted this to arm first which made it easier to get the ball in. Fiddly fitting rubber cover over cup after,but it works. Is this the proper way to do it? I tried fitting complete joint to cone but angle of lower arm will not allow plastic cup to drop in.

It's they way I've done it in the past, never had a problem - apart from the rubber covers  

Quoted from siddarz

It's they way I've done it in the past, never had a problem - apart from the rubber covers  

last time i did them i left the plastic cup on the knuckle joint, and wound some lock wire around the lip of the rubber boot to hold it on the plastic cup (fill it with grease first so it lasts longer). found it easier to smear some grease on the ouside of the cup so it goes in the arm easier. just got to strip it all out so i can change the c**p coil springs back to original rubber cones (anyone behind me on lejog 2008 will know how bad the springs were, and im only just getting round to changing them )