cone compressor

Hi, I have just picked up a suspension cone compressor from Moss, it is the new metric type with an allen key. There are no instructions. Does anyone know how to use it. I can see the basic principle but assume you have to give it so many turns.

Thanks

Paul

Sorry, can't help - my Cone Compresser is called Terry Baker!

Seriously, I didn't know how to do the knuckles on mine, so I got Terry to do it for me.


R.

I can't see a picture of it on their website, so I can't say for sure it works the same way as the traditional Sykes Pickavant one. If I remember correctly, Haynes suggests 9 full turns once the thread engages in the cone when you're using the proper factory one so I would expect Moss' version would be the same.

Main things to note are:
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone
- be careful when screwing the rod into the cone - if you strip the threads on either the rod or the cone, it'll be an angle grinder job to get it out
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone
- do the full 9 turns to reduce the strain on the threads
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone
- only compress the cone just enough to do whatever work you're doing, to avoid stressing the compressor and the bulkhead
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone

If the rod pulls out of the cone (which shouldn't happen, but can) then the energy stored in the cone has to go somewhere. Usually it makes the cone shoot downwards, but sometimes the compressor can shoot upwards, so do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone...

Quoted from siddarz

Main things to note are:
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone
- do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone

If the rod pulls out of the cone (which shouldn't happen, but can) then the energy stored in the cone has to go somewhere. Usually it makes the cone shoot downwards, but sometimes the compressor can shoot upwards, so do not put your head or anything else you value over the top of the compressor or underneath the cone once you start to compress the cone...

Is it safe to assume you've found this out the hard way

Thanks for the warnings, it sounded so simple in the Haynes manual!

Quoted from Jack Knightmare

Is it safe to assume you've found this out the hard way

Oh yes... it's a great cure for constipation when the compressor puts a dent in the underside of the bonnet, and the cone hits the top arm hard enough to squeeze itself out of the subframe tower...

But as long as you do it properly, you're OK  

Might be worth giving Moss a ring to see if there are meant to be instructions with the compressor - I've found them quite helpful int he past.

Quoted from siddarz

Oh yes... it's a great cure for constipation when the compressor puts a dent in the underside of the bonnet, and the cone hits the top arm hard enough to squeeze itself out of the subframe tower...

But as long as you do it properly, you're OK  

Might be worth giving Moss a ring to see if there are meant to be instructions with the compressor - I've found them quite helpful int he past.

i would take the bonnet off, saves making big dents and sore heads.

Managed to replace the knuckle joints and still have my head. Removed the bonnet just in case and worked outside so as not to dent garage door too. Re-fitted new knuckle joints but could not see how to get cone and complete joint into place in one go. I removed plastic cup and fitted this to arm first which made it easier to get the ball in. Fiddly fitting rubber cover over cup after,but it works. Is this the proper way to do it? I tried fitting complete joint to cone but angle of lower arm will not allow plastic cup to drop in.

It's they way I've done it in the past, never had a problem - apart from the rubber covers  

Quoted from siddarz

It's they way I've done it in the past, never had a problem - apart from the rubber covers  

last time i did them i left the plastic cup on the knuckle joint, and wound some lock wire around the lip of the rubber boot to hold it on the plastic cup (fill it with grease first so it lasts longer). found it easier to smear some grease on the ouside of the cup so it goes in the arm easier. just got to strip it all out so i can change the c**p coil springs back to original rubber cones (anyone behind me on lejog 2008 will know how bad the springs were, and im only just getting round to changing them )

Quoted from redhotmini

anyone behind me on lejog 2008 will know how bad the springs were, and im only just getting round to changing them

Ah yes, the new groove pattern...

Quoted from siddarz

Ah yes, the new groove pattern...

yes i need to do lots of work on the mini this year. suspension is one of those jobs which i hate doing, especially the front.

I know I should of been on here earlier but I have been a bit busy.
So this is how I do it.
1 Use the compressor as one should but you will find the when you do the ball will lift out of the cup but not quite enough.  So turn down the tee handle another turn and hope that it does not pop out of the rubber doughnut. Turn it down another turn and remove the bump stop it helps.
2 Get a big bar and put it behind the ball and give it a push , hope the the ball pops out of the cup, if it does go to 3. if not try again.
3. The trumpet should now fall out of the tunnel. Knock the knuckle out of the trumpet with a punch. I put the trumpet in the top of an axle stand after removing the bit that moves up and down. The reason why I do that is the collar around the top of the trumpet has a habit of breaking off if you do not take care. I have loads of broken trumpets just waiting for the price of the aluminum to go up.
4. Make sure the hole in the trumpet that the old knuckle came out off will fit the new one. You may have to file this out but it should fit easy.
5 Get the plastic cup out of the hole. I use an old screw driver and a hammer, once it is out I use one of those cable things that go on a drill with a little stone ball on the end to clean out the hole.
6. I then put the new knuckle joint into the nice clean hole. I even give it a tap with a hammer.
7. Put the trumpet back into the tunnel and over the knuckle joint. Then jack up the bottom arm forcing the knuckle joint into the trumpet.
8 Then undo the special tool and lower the jack but only after refitting the bump stop

So a quick refresh first try and understand my instructions and then let me know what I was taking about.

Terry. Where was the "beat the c**p out of it with a big hammer" that I witnessed, when you were removing one of mine?!

If I knew what I was talking about, I'd be able to tell you what part it was that was being beaten! Thinking about it, it might have been point 6.

Whatever, it worked.


R.
ps. Thanks again for doing them both, Terry.

pps. How did those two asterisks get there? I used letters "r" & "a"?!

Quoted from richardjackson99

pps. How did those two asterisks get there? I used letters "r" & "a"?!

it's like magic!  

Quoted from richardjackson99

"beat the c**p out of it with a big hammer"

that normally sorts most things out, if it doesnt its quickly followed by "wheres the f**king angle grinder"

Naughty! We don't have that word on here please. I'm surprised at you Charlie

added to the censor list...  

I managed to fit mine eventually but have now read that there should be a small washer between the cone and knuckle joint on post 1990 models. Doesn't seem to have made much difference to ride height, but at least the squeaking has stopped.

oops! normally it censors those words. got to keep PR on her toes